Everything about this label tells me to keep shopping. First of all, the Roland Thévenin négociant label was acquired and then resold by Boisset, the rather large French liquor firm some years ago. Not the kind of thing that warms the heart of a Burgundy lover. Secondly, Monthélie is one of those minor communes in the Côte d’Or not exactly known for its profusion of magical wines if recognized at all. So, I wasn’t terribly keen on tasting when it was presented to me. In fact, were it not for my level of respect for the person presenting, I would have taken a pass and gotten on with my day. That would have been a mistake. This wine turned out to be my biggest selling Burgundy of 2009. It may be a corporate owned negoce and from a backwater appellation but there’s real class and commitment behind this wine. Roland Thévenin was a respected wine merchant and négociant with good grower relationships and excellent access to great fruit. That seems to have remained intact and the quality/price ratio here is terrific as well. The fact that 2005 was such a fantastic vintage at all levels of quality certainly doesn’t hurt and this wine shows it off in spades. Rich, spicy pinot fruit, good structure with surprising depth and length. Drinking well now but should hold for a few years.
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