A few weeks back, the wife and I decided to check out Virginia Wineworks (www.michaelshapswines.com). Michael Shaps is the head winemaker there formerly of King Family Vineyards. He also makes wine in Meursault, France. We had missed him at a local wine tasting and wanted to see his facility and taste the wine he makes from local grapes.
Calling the winery where Shaps makes his wine rustic, would be an understatement. Over the river and through to woods to Virginia Wineworks one goes. Picture dirt roads through woods that finally open up to a gravel parking lot in front of an industrial looking, cinder block building. If not for a handwritten, “OPEN” sign over the door, we would have turned around thinking we had stumbled across a moonshine operation. I am exaggerating a little but Shaps’ operation is not a smooth, Napa inspired, tasting room with oak bars and classical music playing. This winery is…well, a winery. He makes his wine there. When one enters, they pass label machines, shiny steel tanks and fermenters and stacks and stacks of wine barrels. This is a no nonsense operation. The bottles of wines for tasting are on a board laid across two wine barrels. Although some might think this a little odd, I loved the no frills approach. One got a sense that this was a place for serious wine and not another stop on the agri-tourist map.
There are tons of wines to taste for $5 that is forgiven with the purchase of a bottle of wine. Both Shaps’ labels are showcased: the lower end Virginia Wineworks wines and the more thoughtful Michael Shaps label. Many Virginia wineries have adopted this approach and I think it a sound one. They have a lower priced, easy drinking wine to pay the bills while they experiment with more serious wine at a higher price point and more rigorous wine making techniques.
Of the Virginia Wineworks offerings, I enjoyed the Viognier (actually a blend of 75% Viognier and 25% Vidal Blanc). It is simple and a little sweet on the palate despite lacking any residual sugar. It’s clean and crisp with some nice floral notes and a touch of honied fruit. On the red side, most of the wines are simple and probably best described as table wines. If Norton is a grape not yet tried, it’s worth a moment to give it a try. I don’t know that I like it, but it’s interesting. Intensely fruity and light stoppingly opaque, it is a grape to be reckoned with.
As I mentioned before, the wine maker’s eponymous label is far more serious. One could get a sense of what Shaps is trying to accomplish by the form and structure of his wine. I think the Michael Shaps 2007 Chardonnay ($32) is interesting. Shaps’ training in Burgundy showed through as he manages to balance the citrus and slight perfume of the grapes with the vanilla, smokiness of oak. The Michael Shaps 2007 Viognier ($32) is less my style than the Virginia Winework’s version. There is a bitterness on the mid-palate that I did not enjoy.
The Michael Shaps 2007 Cabernet Franc ($32) is a great effort with a funky grape. It is strong and beefy with nice red fruit and highlights some of the funky, barnyard, earthiness that is characteristic of many Cab. Franc varietals. It can be difficult to get Cabernet Franc to stand on its own. It’s often awkward and it does not have the flavor profile that will appeal to everyone. This wine is a nice balance between making Cab. Franc a little more socially acceptable without striping away its individuality.
My favorite offering, the one I took home with me, was 2007 Michael Shaps “Raisin d’Etre” Late Harvest Petit Verdot/Cabernet Franc ($32 for 375ml bottle). This wine is made in the Ripasso style like the legendary Amarone wines from the Veneto in Italy. It is someplace between a dessert wine and a port. It’s sweet and delicious but has serious notes of prunes, raisins, chocolate and leather on the palate. I am a sucker for sweet wine but I think this offering would appeal to more than just sugar junkies.
Despite Virginia Wineworks rustic setting, I really enjoyed our visit. The environment makes the visitor feel like production has shut down to show them around. One can get a sense for the winemaking process and imagine how everything happens. For the more ambitious, they also offer a custom crush program where aspiring winemakers can produce some of their own juice with the help of Shaps and his equipment. It’s worth a visit.
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