By Zoltan Szabo
Sommelier Zoltan Szabo
2008 13th Street “Noirs” Niagara Peninsula VQA
Blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir. Bright aromas of cherries with pine-savoury nuances. Light, soft and juicy with upbeat freshness, so serve slightly chilled. Lovely with pork schnitzel or roast turkey and cranberry sauce.
2007 Closson Chase “Steve Kocsis” Chardonnay Ontario VQA
These grapes come from the vineyard Debra Paskus used in the past to make the Temkin-Paskus Chardonnays. Bouquet of candied tropical fruit, buttered popcorn, fresh fennel, and minerals. This is a Chardonnay that has an unmistakable Debra Paskus flair. Boisterous, rich, and in-your-face.
2007 Rosehall Run “Cold Creek” Cabernet Franc Prince Edward County VQA
This is a beautiful Cabernet Franc that could make many Loire producers jealous. Winemaker Dan Sullivan makes excellent Pinots as well, but this red is equally great. Kirsch, floral, spicy notes; judicious oaking; medium-weight and delicate with herbal, sour red cherry finish. A wine with great purity and integrity.
NV Château Vincent “Don Giovanni Dry Jubileum” Balatonlelle Hungary
A very interesting sparkler here, made in the traditional way from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and the indigenous Irsai Oliver. It was released in 2006 to commemorate the 250th birthday of musical genius Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Sour yellow apple, tea leaf and dried white blossoms with strong yeasty and mineral aromas. Full and persistent over the palate, not overly dry neither, just perfect with steamed, buttered lobster. “Rock me, Amadeus”, you shall never be forgotten, may this bubbly stand testament to that. Château Vincent also produces a really good and more delicate Pinot Noir Rosé sparkling wine.
2007 Palatine Hills Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Niagra-On-The-Lake VQA
Lots of forward fruit, oak too, but balanced, surprisingly good structure here for less than $15, worth buying. Seems that quality has improved significantly at this winery lately, the 2008 Chardonnay is also pleasant, tropical, and floral due to a smart “play” with yeasts perhaps?
2008 Puklus Tokaji Yellow Muscat, Szentkereszt Dul Tokaj-Hegyalja Hungary
Brilliant, medium-golden colour. Spicy-savoury, pineapple, chamomile flower, interesting nutty-toasted almond-mineral aromas on its nose. Light to med-weight and off dry, juicy, and with balancing acidity; the finish is sweet-ripe-tropical and crisp alright, almost tart. Don’t bother cellaring this, drink now. This is a very pretty, delicate and extremely pleasant, seasonless sipping wine, or try with curry-lemongrass halibut, although is great with sushi and ceviche too.
2008 Charles Baker Riesling Picone Vineyard Vinemount Ridge VQA
The 2008 vintage was pretty cool, producing somewhat leaner and more acidic wines, a perfect year for Riesling. When the previous vintage of this Riesling has “broader shoulders” – is fuller and more tropical – the 2008 “dances more lightly” over the palate, is more intense and is certainly possessing more vividity. It’s just like taking a bite of a juicy, sweet & sour green apple. It is also limey, with an underlying soft nuance of apple blossoms, and with plenty of limestone accents. There’s 23 grams per liter residual sugar in it, but it still tastes tart, finishes with a zesty and minerally strike. Baker does it again, bringing us a superb “Riesling lovers’ Riesling” that is immediately asking for food. I tried it with traditional Transylvanian “kocsonya” (jellied smoked pork hock, feet and skin, sprinkled with sweet paprika and served with a drizzle of white wine vinegar and pickled red onions on the side) and I was joyful and very happy.
2005 Ceago Vinegarden “Del Lago” Cabernet Sauvignon Clear Lake Lake County California
Ceago Vinegarden is owned by Jim Fetzer. This Cab Sauv exhibits savoury,spicy, currants, cranberry, gamey notes on its nose and palate. Not a heavy-weight, rather focused, medium plus bodied with fresh acids and with soft-dusty tannins. Biodynamic too.
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